Thursday, July 28, 2011

6/14 Day 111

Coach:
Last night we slept at Lake of the Clouds Hut doing work for stay. It was quite a surreal experience. Since we got there early, we sat around a table we had occupied playing chess. We had to be a sight playing chess next to our mini bag explosion as paying guests waited for dinner, watching us. One of the nice features about the huts is that they always over-cook and feed the extra food to thru-hikers. Let me assure you it was awesome! In fact, it was very difficult to eat everything they gave us. I really had to force the last couple cookies down, but they frown upon not eating what you take, so, what could I do other that eat the cookies? In the morning, we woke up early since we had our clothes hanging up on a line and were sleeping on the tables in the common area/dining hall. We got fed some scrambled eggs, drank some coffee, and headed out to the summit in what we knew was going to be bad weather. Even though the weather was bad, and we didn't see a view until the end of the day, the experience was awesome! We were tired pushing out the last couple of miles into Pinkham Notch where the day took on a completely surreal experience. Starting the day with a tough ridge walk in bad weather and ending it at Rosemary and John's restored 19th century farmhouse was amazing. Rosemary and John are amazing people, and I am very glad we had the opportunity to meet them.

Professor:
Lakes of the Clouds Hut to Pinkham Notch. Homemade Doughnuts were being made as we awoke on the dining room tables this morning. We had a roof over out heads last night and it was nice knowing that because I could hear the wind howling over the ridge. At the base of Mount Washington...it sounded cold. One of the paying guests used the bathroom like four or five times last night. I knew it was the same person because she must have been wearing wooden clogs or something: Cloppitty, cloppitty, clop over the wooden floor, door opens and closes...just enough time to dose, door opens and closes, cloppitty, cloppitty, clop over the wooden floor. I put my ear plugs in and dreamt of horses in a distant cold mist.

We ate free two day old pancakes and drank "sort of" recently brewed coffee as I eyeballed the fresh, warm, soft doughnuts one of the hut employees was making for the "paying" guests. He did scramble us a bowl of eggs, and for that we were grateful. As we were readying for bed the night before we threw our typical evening clothes line (...in the dining hall, after the guests went to bed of course...), and I wanted to wake up early and have it down before the hut guests came in for dinner. I didn't notice, but Coach informed me after making his morning deposit that apparently us, and our clothes line, completely stunk up the dinning hall. A nice pungent odor of thru-hiker and sweet doughnuts...it must have been confusing for the paying guests before coffee.

6:45 departure from Lakes of the Clouds to summit Mt. Washington. We geared up with our weather armor, and layered with every piece of clothing in our pack. Less than an hour later we were on the summit: 50 mph winds, 32 degrees F with a wind chill of 10-20 degrees F (we learned all this at the ranger station on the summit). Hung out with the rangers for about 30 minutes, then we began our 8 mile exposed ridge-line hike through the weather. Slippery rocks, snowbanks, ankle breakers. We had 20-40 yards of visibility, just enough to see the next rock pile indicating that we are still on the "trail," if you want to call it that. Wet, rain, mist, ring out your gloves, ring out your socks, jump from rock to rock, and watch your step.

The sky opened up right as we were exiting the ridge. Long technical hike as we entered into the tree line. Tired. Unblazed trail, confusion. Finally we reached a parking lot...Rosemary to save the day. Bananas and strawberries in the car. John grilled local chicken. Bread, salad, potato salad, beans, fruit pudding angel food cake dessert. Beer, bed.

Life after...and final days

I'm sitting here with mine and coach's last journal entries somehow trying desperately to motivate myself to enter them into the blog...and finish this trip. Its difficult. I've been procrastinating, ignoring the task. I guess in some weird way it makes it all official. It makes it all officially over and that's a big pill to swallow. I don't want to admit its over, because, after all of the bitching and moaning, pain, cold, hot, wet, thirsty… as bad as I wanted to stop hiking and get off of the Appalachian Trail, I strangely want it all back. I feel trapped in an inescapable limbo of relief and yearning, and I am haunted by The Trail.

Inevitably, like the cliche it is, I must use the AT as a metaphor for life. And this life experience I am struggling through right now is one of many. I am going to push through no matter how painful, and share with you the last days of the Appalachian Trail...

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Update- FINISHED

On July 2nd, Coach and the Professor reached Baxter Peak, the Northern Terminus of the Appalachian Trail. The journey has been long, hard, and successful. The support of family, friends, strangers-turned-friends and simply strangers has been overwhelming.

Coach and the Professor will update the blog with the remaining journal entries as soon as they journey home, and also share some parting thoughts...

Friday, June 24, 2011

Update- Closing in on Monson, Maine

Coach and the Professor will arrive in Monson, Maine tomorrow, leaving them LESS THAN 120 miles from the FINISH.



Photo courtesy of Manager Mike, taken June 21, 2011 somewhere in rural Maine.

From the Journals: DAY 110, June 13

Coach
Ethan Pond Shelter - Lakes of the Cloud Hut: 13.9mi
Easy start this morning, until we had to hike out of Crawford's Notch. The hike out was more like a climb out. The weather made it more difficult. Looked forward to more hut hopping for soup and bread. I think I am actually gaining weight now. Tonight we are doing a work for stay at one of the huts. The weather at the summit of Mt. Washington looks really bad. Basically, it will be in the 30's with strong winds and gusts up to 50mph. The windchill will be in the teens. Can't wait!

Professor
We are so excited about the huts here in the Whites that we basically woke up thinking about hot soup. 10 miles to the next hut...What kind of soup will they have?... Do you think they will hook us up with some free bread?... We asked each other these questions as we hiked. After dropping down from Ethan Pond into Crawford Notch and NH302, we started climbing arguably the steepest ascent yet of the trip.

Roughly 3.6 miles of hand over foot rock scrambling and cliff climbing. With our packs, it was incredibly difficult...shaky thighs, burning calves...keep pushing, keep pushing, loosen your chest strap so you can take deeper breaths, blood rushes to your muscles in support. My heart pumps, thumps, it feels strong about almost 1,900 miles of hiking...keep pushing, I can feel my feet starting to cramp, the arch of my foot wants to cramp in a ball of pain and curl my foot into a claw in my wet, smelly shoes... keep pushing, drink water to avoid the cramps in my calves and feet.

Cold, wet, wind. It's hard to regulate your body temperature in this weather. Coat on, coat off. Hat on, hat off. Gloves on, gloves off. Fleece on, fleece off. Etc, etc. So on and so forth. Constantly putting on and taking off our sweaty wet layers.

Finally, Mizpah shelter, soup, bread, brownies, free! They like thru-hikers around here, it's awesome! Climbed above the tree line again entering the Presidential Range of the Whites. High elevation, white out, then brief view, then white out, then rain, then quick view, climb, climb, climb, Ridge.

Lakes of the Cloud Hut, just below the summit of Mt. Washington. Work for stay - Free dinner (1 pancake, lemonade, coffee, 2 bowls of soup, salad, 1/4 loaf of bread, chicken, rice, green beans, 2 pieces of apple cake, cranberry juice), sleep on dining room floor. They liked us, we only cleaned for 20 minutes after dinner.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

From the Journals: DAY 109, June 12

Coach
Garfield Ridge Shelter - Ethan Pond Shelter: 15.2 mi
After being packed in like sardines, we were actually one of the last ones to leave in the morning. The conditions yesterday didn't make us want to get back out in it. We had heard today was going to be worse than yesterday, but it turned out to not be nearly as bad. It still rained, but most drizzled all day. We also didn't have to go on any exposed ridgelines. Despite the weather, the day was actually really good and a big morale booster. We still got in 15 miles in the Whites, which is good by itself, but we also got to eat a lot of food. We started the morning by crushing oatmeal cookies our friend Anne made for us in our oatmeal. Later that morning we stopped in at a hut where we got 2 bowls of soup, which we added our lunch meat to, cake and coffee. Next, we hiked 6 miles to the next hut. There we ate another bowl of soup, carrot cake, and a lot of bread. The bread was amazing, the girl serving food really hooked us up. We finally ended the day with dinner. Tonight, we had our usual Alpine Aire dinner with a bagel, a mass produced oatmeal creme pie, and more of Anne's cookies. It was a good day and good food. As I write this I am already hungry again.

Professor
We were in a shelter that sleeps 12... with 14 people in it, wet, cold, and generally trying to look past how miserable we all really were. I shook almost uncontrollably when I brushed my teeth. Sardine lineup: A couple (2), Solo, ultra-lite dude (1), Coach and Prof (2), Maine girls (2), French Canadians (4), 3 dudes on the end (3). I was jammed between Coach and a pole with wet jackets hanging up, dripping. Today, I was thankful for: Soup at huts (vegetable chowder and tomato), Bread, carrot cake, coffee cake, coffee, Anne's oatmeal cookies. We ate like kings, the rain held off, we were warm, we felt strong again. Tomorrow we begin our two day ascent to Mt. Washington and perform our first "work for stay" at the White Mountain Presidential Range Hut.

From the Journals: DAY 108, June 11

Coach
Franconia Notch Visitor Center - Garfield Ridge Shelter: 10.0mi
This day was by far the hardest one we have had. It began with a resupply, which combined with our cold weather gear change made our packs heavier than they have been in a while. Then we had to hike up to the ridgeline and over 2 summits. Although it was only 10 miles, it was a lot of up. I knew were in trouble when it felt difficult to hike up a small incline on a bike path out of the Visitor Center. It only got more difficult after that. The fact that we were hiking through heavy rain meant we were soaked to the bone. The Professor was really cold. I only got really cold once we reached the first summit. After arriving to the summit, we got to hike on an exposed ridgeline for over 2 miles up and over the second summit. On this exposed ridgeline, we got to endure rain and strong winds. Winds with gusts up to 45mph. The wind chill was 28 degrees, according to a weather report we saw from Mt. Washington. Needless to say, it wasn't a very good time. All I could think about was getting to the shelter and to get dry and crawl into my 0 degree sleeping bag that I am very thankful I brought back. Of course, when we got to the shelter, it was pretty packed, since everybody goes for shelter in bad weather in the mountains. The full shelter and bad weather reminded me of the Smokies. We packed in like Sardines. The Professor was next to a group of French Canadians and I was next to a girl who asked me if my foot was "O.K."? after she noticed me cleaning them. I can only take that as a good sign. It was a cold night. Basically, the most positive thing from today is that chances are very strong it can only get better after this day.

Professor
Today went south, so fast I almost had a psychological meltdown. It certainly rates in the top 2 to 3 moments when I seriously thought about quitting. Saving graces:

1. Thoughts of finishing for Lindsay
2. Anne Farra's cookies and bourbon
3. The fact that Coach didn't like the idea of taking a side trail off the ridge and down into the tree line to a parking area
4. Remembering to eat
5. Moving to stay warm
6. Concentrating on blazes so as not to get lost
7. Elijah Craig 18 year from Manager Mike/Hell Hound
8. Remembering all the people who are helping, supporting, and sending their love to us
9. Not having to pay for the shelter

From the Journals: DAY 107, June 10

Coach
Franconia Notch Visitor Center - Glencliff: 25.9mi
-Rough terrain
-Beautiful views
-Wrong turn = additional 3/4 mi
-Ate half a jar of peanut butter on Mt. Moosilauke
-Worried about ankle
-Mud Elephant's bday with some Wild Turkey

Professor
Corn beef hash, award winning maple syrup. Lesson: listen to guys with grey beards. Lost in the Whites. Found in the Whites. Marathon in the Whites. (almost 27 miles). Met some Southbounders, they were really skinny, I think Coach and I eat well. Pushing up a hill. Big push. Finally feeling strong. I think I'm finally getting into trail shape, I don't want to speak too soon though. The elevation and weather in the Whites are incredibly difficult. We worried Fat Chap, because we were a little later than "planned." We drank Wild Turkey with Mud Elephant, it was his birthday. Had frozen pizza and ice cream.

From the Journals: DAY 106, June 9

Coach
Ore Hill Shelter - Hostel in Glencliff: 7.6 mi
Due to a logistical error and a thunderstorm in the afternoon, we ended up staying at the hostel. The guys running the place were awesome. They basically did what Kentucky Greybeard did for us in the Smokies, proving my theory that you always listen to a guy with a big grey beard. They suggested to make up miles we should slack pack 26 miles southbound. Apparently they didn't normally suggest this idea because the terrain is very rugged, but I guess our resume passed the litmus test. So, big day tomorrow. We also passed out at 4pm for a 3 hour nap only to wake up, eat dinner, and go back to sleep. I am pretty sure we were extremely fatigued. Tomorrow will put us back on track.

Professor
Coach's dad said "Sometimes you have to go slow to go fast." This has calmed my anxiety a little about our progress. Between injuries (mine and Coach) and logistic nightmares, our plans seem to change daily. I mean, when you think about it, we are trying to tackle something with so many impossible to predict variables that our "plan" is really an ever changing daily guideline...almost an hourly changing guideline. The further we hike North, the more impossible is the "plan."

Right now I am laying in a bunk in the middle of nowhere, New Hampshire that we were forced to stay in because we were waiting for the Post Office (I say Post Office loosely because it was really an old ladies home with a flag out front) to open so we could bring back some winter gear for the Whites, which we are entering tomorrow. As we waited in 90 degree weather for our winter gear (which felt absurd), dirty, bug bitten, or should I say bug ravaged, deet covered sweat mixed in with mud and last night's thunderstorm, another thunderstorm hit and forced us into the Hostel. This was not a part of the "plan."

In the hostel, we met Mud Elephant and Fat Chap. Thru-hikers from the past and apparently very experienced hikers of the Whites. Fat Chap stroked his long grey beard and helped us formulate a new "plan."

At 4:45am I am supposed to wake him up out of his Winnebago, after which he insists on taking us to a breakfast joint because they open at 5am, then to the Franconia Notch, from where we will be hopefully slackpacking southbound (over the Whites) 25 miles back to this hostel. So it appears our Northbound Thru-Hike will include a 26 mile southbound section.

From the Journals: DAY 105, June 8

Coach
Moose Mountain Shelter - Ore Hill Shelter: 24.8mi
Tough day, the terrain is certainly becoming more difficult. I am glad we are dropping what we need to average a day through the Whites. Ate lunch in a fire tower, which was awesome. Bugs were bad all day and we had to hike into the night. I think the nights would be unbearable without the Bivy sacks, courtsey of Professor's Mother in law, thanks Sherry!

Professor
Hot, hot, thunderstorm, bugs, mileage. Yet another day we are hiking until dark, after dark. We are having a lot of trouble getting on a schedule such that allows us to get to a shelter or campsite early. (when it's light). Ran into a couple of other thru-hikers today. First time in a while. They looked emaciated. I think Coach and I eat better than most.

Swamp, swamp, swamp, hot, hot, hot, bugs, bugs, bugs. Thank god for the Bivy sack or we would never get to sleep, no relief.

A giant beetle got caught in my bug bivy with me. I felt it crawling behind my ear next to my head. I killed it.

The heat is so uncomfortable, the deet we lather on ourselves clogs our pores and makes us feel like we are baking ourselves alive...with a marinade of bug poison.

From the Journals: DAY 104, June 7

Coach
I-89 underpass - Moose Mountain Shelter (New Hampshire): 20.2 mi
Although it was difficult to leave Brittany and Rockstar, we headed out today for the final push. The next 3 weeks are going to quite a challenge. My ankle did recover from the two days rest, but I know it will continue to be a problem until the end. I am going to try to stay with the Professor as long as I can, but the White Mountains are filling me with doubt. It will be the toughest part of the Trail. Highlight of the day was eating gelato in Hanover, NH, people were watching.

Professor
Today we left the slack packing of Brittany and Rock*. I have a very strong feeling that Coach and I will not be hiking together for much longer. Everytime I hear him grimace in pain behind me, I can't help but picture the profile of the Whites that lay in front of us. It totally bums me out...the idea of having to push ahead and basically leave Coach behind. It makes me feel sad like I'm bailing on him...not to mention I would rather not have to tackle 100 mile wilderness totally alone. We walked directly through Dartmouth College in Hanover, NH. (yeah, we're in New Hampshire). Totally surreal experience walking through a beautiful college campus. The students were everywhere, just getting out of school. It's times like these when I feel like an outcast. I'm starting to get tired of feeling that way.

From the Journals: DAY 103, June 6

Coach
VT 12 (Woodstock) - I-89 underpass: 13.8mi
First day back on the Trail after giving the ankle some rest. Starting nice and easy with some slack packing. Things went well, but I am nervous about whether it will hold up in the long run.

Professor
Slacked with Coach today went 14 miles and his ankle was hurting by mile 8 or 9. I think it's becoming apparent to both of us there is a chance we will not be hiking together much longer. It's really bringing a bummer mood over us both. A psychological blow. I don't want to hike a month alone.

From the Journals: DAY 102, June 5

Coach
Woodstock, VT: 0mi
Still hanging out and resting my ankle with Rockstar and Brittany.

Professor
Slacked 20 miles from Kent Pond to Woodstock. I did it in 7.5 hours alone...I just wanted to get it over with so I could be with friends. Coach wanted an extra day for his ankle. Britt fixed us pot roast tonight. Mmmmmm.

From the Journals: DAY 101, June 4

Coach
Woodstock, VT: 0mi
Got to hang out and rest my ankle with Rockstar and Brittany.

Professor
Today I climbed over Killington. Trail was rough and rugged. It was a good climb to the top...an off season ski lodge stood quiet. It's cold up here. Makes me wonder about the Whites. My feet started hurting today in a very familiar way. My shoes are obviously breaking down. Went 14 miles to a road crossing where Rockstar, Brittany and Coach were supposed to meet me for lunch. I decided it was not worth risking the feet problem in hopes that my shoes had gotten to the Post Office. Unfortunately, they had not arrived. But Rockstar and Brittany offered to slack pack me the next day. So between being lonely and hurting it was impossible to resist the offer. Tonight I am staying at their house. We had porkchops, zucchini and squash. 3 cats, 2 dogs, 2 roommates, Rockstar, Britt, Coach and me. Full House.

From the Journals: DAY 100, June 3

Coach
Peru Peak Shelter - Danby-Landgrove Rd, VT: 7.6mi
Once again, the Professor and I parted ways. It was very sad and I really hope the time off will allow me to finish this adventure with him. He continued on the Trail and hiked to the nearby town of Danby to get picked up by our friend Brittany. My ankle injury is really frustrating. I can still hike, but not the 20+ miles we need to cover a day. I guess time will tell.

Professor
On my own again...
Peru Peak Shelter - Governer Clement shelter: 29.1mi
Coach hiked the first 8 miles with me. Then I left him off at Danby-Landgrove Rd...3 miles outside of Danby, VT. It was odd Danby being where I spent some memorable times as a youth with my Uncle Billy. It was also odd to part ways at that road...Coach hobbling down a forest road, me disappearing back into the woods. I didn't like it. I hope the rest he gets this weekend will get him back in the game for good.

We woke up cold this morning, couldn't have been more than 45 degrees. Today was beautiful, lonely, and sad. 21 miles is a long way to think. As I get further North I find that I become more reflective. This has been such a long journey.

From the Journals: DAY 99, June 2

Coach
Stratton Mountain - Peru Peak Shelter: 23.9 mi
I was wondering when it was going to happen again and today coming off Bromley Mtn I reaggravated my ankle injury. The last couple miles were painful. We made the decision to take advantage of the fact that we had friends in the area. They agreed to come pick me up so my ankle could have time to recover. While I rest, the Professor will continue to hike, so he can stay on schedule. I will come back and slack pack this area after we finish.

Professor
We got off the mountain quick this morning. High winds and threat of a storm looming. It was cold. Colder than I've felt since Virginia. We pushed out for a while but Coach's ankle started hurting again and we had to pull up a shelter short of our goal. We've decided to separate again. He's going to pull off and get picked up by Rockstar and Britt, our friends from college. We are very lucky that they live in the area and can help us out.

From the Journals: DAY 98, June 1

Coach
Hell Hollow Brook - Stratton Mtn: 23.1 mi
Made another big mistake concerning food. I didn't bring enough and have to ration. It really affected my energy level. I felt like I was dragging all day. We did some cowboy camping on a mountain. The winds are very strong.

Professor
Stratton Mountain- HARD!
Crazy flash boom storm in the afternoon. We got wet but were able to hole up in a shelter for 20 or 30 minutes with a chaperoned group of high schoolers...Stratton was a long climb at the end of a day. Firetower, crazy winds, camped illegally on top of the mountain. Coach was not feeling good, did not sleep well.

From the Journals: DAY 97, May 31

Coach
Williamstown, MA - Hell Hollow Brook: 21.7mi
Made a good push out of Williamstown. Nothing too exciting, but we did use the Bivy sacks thanks to Professor's Mother in law, Sherry. They will no doubt prove to be worth their weight in gold.

Professor
We saw a MOOSE! Entered Vermont and started hiking on the "Long Trail" which coincides with the AT for over a hundred miles, then peels off and goes to the Canadian border. The foliage is so dense now that we are full on into Summer we almost ran smack into the face of a moose. I'm in my bivy sack, it works great! Thanks Sherry! Feels kinda crazy we needed to push out some miles today so we pushed almost until dark. The only place we could find to camp is a mosquito and black fly infested area next to a stream. Made a fire and put some half wet wood on it to create smoke to keep bugs at bay while we ate dinner.

From the Journals: DAY 96, May 30

Coach
Williamstown, MA: 0mi
-Awesome Indian food
-Resting up for strong push
-Restored hope in humanity

Professor
Some days just don't turn out like you think they will...Waking up at Doug and Jane's was surreal. Very restful, very feng shui. It kind of makes me realize how hard we are being on our bodies. I'm looking forward to having a couch to sit on again. Note to self: 12 doughnuts and 6 doughnut holes is too many for two people. I don't care who you are.

From the Journals: DAY 95, May 29



Coach

Cheshire, MA - Williamstown, MA: 14.1mi

Lindsay slack packed us again today. The sun was out and made the first part of the day a little tough, but we were back in form by the end of the day. We stayed the night with a couple, Doug and Jane, who were friends of a friend of the Professor's grandmother. They were very gracious hosts, who entertained and fed us very well. It is hard to explain how many awesome people we have met on this adventure.


Professor

Slack Packin' with Lindsay over Mt. Greylock, highest peak in Maine! Thank you Jane and Doug for an amazing and relaxing time at your beautiful home!








From the Journals: DAY 94, May 28

Coach
Campsite - Dalton, MA: 7.8mi

Dalton, MA - Cheshire, MA: 8.0mi


Last night I hiked until dark and then got to camp in a swamp. On a positive note, I got on the Trail by 5:30am and was able to get to Dalton early in the morning. It was good to see the Professor again. We ate an awesome breakfast and then Lindsay slack packed us 8 more miles. We only took a bottle of water and trail ran the whole thing in 2 hours. After the reunion spirits were high and only continued to soar when we went to the Professor's cousin's house for ribs. These ribs and for that matter all the food was amazing. Thanks Jeff and Micki it was an awesome morale booster.



Professor

Coach catches up this morning, I'm impressed he's a manimal, but the Team is back together. Ate steak and eggs and directly trail ran 8 miles without pack to meet Lindsay and drive to cousin's house. THANK YOU Jeff and Micki for a wonderful time! *Best Ribs Award to Cousin Jeff* Saw Aunt Marylynn and played catch with Jayden and Tyler (Gavin was catching worms).






Wednesday, June 22, 2011

From the Journals: DAY 93, May 27

Coach
N. Wilcox Mountain Shelter - Outside Dalton, MA: 26.7 mi
Last night I was attacked and harassed by mice all night long. They were bold and were not easily scared off. The first time one woke me, it was getting into one of my bags. When I moved the bag, it just started at me. I didn't move at all. It was almost like he was letting me know I was in his territory and that I was in for a long night. As one can imagine, I didn't get a lot of rest. As a result, I was tired all day. I was tired, but I did manage another good mileage day. The push today means that if I get another early start I will be in Dalton to eat breakfast with Professor and Lindsay.

Professor
I emerged behind an old lumber yard, across some train tracks, and onto Depot Street. I knew that in less than 20 minutes I would be in a Tavern, pint in hand, dirty as all get out, Friday night, waiting for Lindsay. When people stare at me, I stare back until they look away. I think it's an animal thing.

This morning, just as the sun was cresting over the pond, the cabin was filled with the smell of blueberry pancakes, butter and real maple sugar. I ate seven, I could have eaten more, but I knew I had a hill to climb. Later as I was starving I wish I had taken the two extra pancakes being pushed on me. I ate peanut butter instead. Dalton, Dalton, Dalton...that's all I thought of...I went hours without knowing I was hiking...Dalton, daydreaming of Dalton.

Here I sit, my shirt looks like blue and white tie-dye from my sweat stains from the last 5 days. My legs are covered in mud, my beard...well my beard...My pack smells sour from weeks of rain.

From the Journals: DAY 92, May 26

Coach
Glen Brook Shelter - North Wilcox Mountain Shelter: 21.4mi
All I wanted to do when I got to the shelter last night was eat and then sleep. However, the shelter had three really drunk guys in it when I arrived. They were friendly and in good spirits. They gave me some vodka and quieted down when they saw me getting ready for bed. It was nice of them. Unfortunately, their drunken snoring prevented me from sleeping. My headlamp was almost out of battery life, so I was stuck until a section hiker couldn't take it anymore. At midnight we packed up and went down the Trail to get some tent platforms. I managed to get some sleep, but was tired for today. Managed to resupply in 2 hrs by skipping laundry. I also gained some more ground on the Professor. Really tired, but I think I might catch him tomorrow if I push hard. It would be 35 miles into Dalton for me.

Professor
East Mtn. Retreat Center - Upper Goose Pond Cabin: 19.0 trail miles (21.0 miles total)
Sitting on a small deck, breeze, at Upper Goose Pond Cabin. This place is a two story cabin with a huge front porch and bunks upstairs. The downstairs consists of a large community sitting area with a big fireplace, chairs, a table, and bookcases filled with old Trail guides and quirky paperback novels. The "Caretaker" is an older Jewish couple, the woman is cooking baked squash and salad and has invited me to eat some, I gladly accept, thinking how nice that will go with my freeze dried chili meal. I also eyeballed a huge bottle of Tobasco sauce on the kitchen table, I've been out of hot sauce for days now.

Today was hot...buggy of course, I sweat a ton. The last few miles felt like they dragged. As soon as I got here I ripped off my clothes and jumped into the big, cold Massachusetts Pond, I was reborn and revitalized.

The thought of Dalton drove me on. My feet hurt a bit earlier today, I'm guessing from my almost 27 miler yesterday.

From the Journals: DAY 91, May 25

Coach
Pine Swamp Brook Shelter - Glen Brook Shelter: 30.0mi
Got to catch the rabbit!
Got to catch the rabbit!

Professor
Brassie Brook - East Mtn. Retreat Center: 25.3 mi (+ extra 1.5 mi down a road to get here)
I started out the day by immediately climbing two very steep mountains. back to back. I watched the sun rise, not a cloud in the sky. I feel like it has been weeks since that has happened. Then, I descended into a lowland swamp valley of mosquitos. With all the rain, then suddenly a nice sunny day, the mosquitos have blossomed from larvae to swarms. I have little precious bug spray so I used it sparingly, which meant it didn't do a lot since this was one of those situations where you need to submerge yourself in the stuff to make it effective. Bottom line- the mosquitos dictated and ruled the day...You couldn't stop unless there was a breeze, you couldn't open your mouth to breathe, but only through your nose, that way if they managed to make it up your nose you could crush and extract them, you couldn't eat (because that meant stopping), you couldn't look up because they would fly into your eyes more often than when looking down. The mosquitos kamikaze-d your face, eyes, nose, mouth, ears and every inch of skin that either didn't have bug spray on it or wasn't thoroughly covered. They bite straight through your shirt. My only defense was to hike fast. Hiking fast at least made them work for it. I would look over my shoulder and literally see the swarm chasing me. Gives me goose bumps and makes my skin crawl just thinking about it.

Passed Shay's Rebellion Monument in the middle of a field.

From the Journals: DAY 90, May 24

Coach
Kent, CT - Pine Swamp Brook Shelter: 17.0 mi
Hit the trail at Noon. Quickly realized I needed to be careful and take it easy, when I got to an area called St. John's Lodges. It was a steep rocky descent. It is the type of terrain my ankle hates. Met another thru-hiker at the shelter tonight. I pumped him about other thru-hikers we knew. Can't wait to tell the Professor about what I have learned. Tomorrow, I need to push hard to try and make some ground on the Professor.

Professor
Pine Swamp Brook Shelter - Brassie Brook Shelter: 19.6 mi
Day 11 of rain...although, it seems to have cleared up this afternoon which is awesome because I got to the shelter early. It's the first time the sun has stayed out and shining in what feels like weeks! I have all of my stuff airing out over the picnic table (I'm the only one here right now)- My bag and rain gear smell pretty sour from being wet so much without air out time. Hopefully, this will do them some good. My boots and socks especially need this little bit of sunshine; I was crossing a stream with slippery ice-like rocks and fell in almost up to my knees...

The bottoms of my feet still hurt, still feels like someone taped a pebble to the bottoms and forced me to walk on them for miles and miles...they eventually go numb until the last couple of miles in the day when I let my guard down, pretty much anything over 20 miles they hurt no matter what. I've reserved to the fact that this is how it will be the rest of the trip. It's interesting to watch (and feel) what walking almost 1500 miles does to your body.

I think trail hardened is a myth when you are trying to hike the AT in a little over 4 months...more like trail battered.

The solitude of a hike is incredibly rewarding, but I have to admit, hiking the Trail alone can be lonely. I can't think of the last time I could literally count the words on one hand that I spoke in a day. This is the first night of this entire AT experience, from the gear test until now, that it looks like I'll be completely alone.

From the Journals: DAY 89, May 23

Coach
Mystic, CT: 0mi
My friend, Ross, from Marine Maritime picked me up yesterday and let me stay with him while my ankle recovered. It was good to see him and hang out for a little while. Got to watch the HBO series The Pacific and eat sushi. It was a good time.

Professor
Kent, CT - Pine Swamp Brook Shelter: 16.9 mi
WOW THIS GUY WILL NOT BE QUIET. This is when you realize how nice it is to have two or more people hiking with you. That way when you meet weirdos you can tag team them so that all of the focus of the weirdo is not on you. This guy is really posted up at the shelter. I think he might be homeless, I can't tell if his "section hiker" story is true or not. I've actually had time to get dinner and get all ready for bed BEFORE dark. Awesome!... I just looked three mice in the fact. It seems they are nesting right next to my head. I can hear them. I hope it rains tonight. The shelter has a metal roof...that way I won't hear them run by my head. The guy in the shelter, I've discovered, is obsessed with killing mice. He's setting the traps out now...I went to go to the bathroom and stumbled across a dumpsite of those he has caught....

From the Journals: DAY 88, May 22

Coach
? - Kent, CT: 12.8 mi
- Very upset hikers @ 3am because shelter was full
-Professor and I parting ways for a little while (Sad Day)
I have determined that my ankle needs more recovery time. I am still managing to keep up, but it is painful and not fun. With the half day today, a full Zero Day tomorrow, and a late start Tuesday, I can give my ankle almost a full 48 hours of rest. I think and hope that will do the trick. However, this rest period will put me 21 miles behind the Professor. I hope to catch up with him around Dalton, if all goes well. It will no doubt be weird to hike alone, but I think it will be for the best.

Professor
Today we hiked into Kent. Ross came and picked up Coach for R&R on his sprained ankle. Laundry, icecream, beer, bed and back on the Trail tomorrow.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Update- Post Catch-Up to Begin Soon

Due to various injury and of course, the "Whites" of New Hampshire, Coach and the Professor were delayed in sending their journal entries in order to update this Blog. However, the journals are in transit, and as soon as they arrive, the "catch-up" will begin.

Oh, and where are they? Trail Angels Rosemary and John picked up the guys in Pinkham Notch, New Hampshire last night, provided many comforts to the hikers, and then dropped them back off this morning. Despite extremely difficult terrain, temperatures in the 30s (and in the 10s with wind chill), spirits are high. When Rosemary and John pick up the hikers again on June 17th, they will have arrived in Maine, the last state.

Friday, June 3, 2011

From the Journals: DAY 87, May 21

Coach
Tentsite - Who Cares!: 26.7mi

NO FUN!


Professor

It has now rained for 8 consecutive days. We haven't had the opportunity to really dry out. Everything is some form of wet or damp. Sloppiest trail to date. Soggy socks, soggy shoes. Miniature goats baaaaa-ing behind Coach and I as we walked down a country road. Folks marveled at the spectacle. Today was a total grind out sloppy push battle through mud and slippery rocks. Almost 27 miles today, over about 14 hours. Took a spill on some rocks. Have a sweet bruise on my right leg now. Dijon chicken for dinner, almost 1,000 calories along with the honey bun it should push it over the edge.

From the Journals: DAY 86, May 20

Coach
Ft. Montgomery, NY - Tentsite: 23.4mi
It's all up to you ANKLE BRACE.

Professor
If I was by myself, especially tonight, I have to confess I would be totally creeped out by the setting: abandoned boarded up building in a field. There is an awning to one side with a cement platform that Coach and I are asleep under.
I can tell Coach was in some pain today, we agreed that we would do our best to push in to Kent, CT. Then Coach is going to decide what to do about his ankle.

From the Journals: DAY 85, May 19

Coach
Ft. Montgomery, NY: 0mi
Ankle Brace was purchased. Recovery. AMC disappointed us by running a Matrix marathon instead of showing any good movies today.

Professor
Zero @ West Point. So of course the sun comes out today, but whatever we have all our gear outside in the parking lot and on the sidewalk drying! I'm sure the family owned motel loved that. Lots of West Point grads and their families milling about. Coach and I REALLY stand out. We had a pitcher of margaritas at a mexican restaurant, the Zero Day is becoming less painful.
We resupplied at a Rite Aid. Jimmy Dean Delights, Hot Pockets and Lucky Charms. Watched the Matrix and Terminator 2 on AMC.

From the Journals: DAY 84, May 18

Coach
Fingerboard Shelter - Ft. Montgomery, NY: 15.6mi
Well, the morning was indicative of how bad the day would become. We had to cross a flooded stream that ended up finally doing in my left ankle. Apparently, the ankle just couldn't handle jumping from rock to rock across the stream. After the crossing, the ankle quickly deterioated, forcing us off the trail into Ft. Montgomery. The timing was not good; West Point is located here and having graduation this weekend. After several phone calls, we found a place about 20 miles away. Luckily, we looked so pathetic to the taxi driver (34 miles outside NYC mind you) that instead of taking us to the next town, a $40 ride, he took us around to a couple of motels to inquire about vacancies and then only charged us $8. Hopefully, my ankle onlyu needs 1 day of rest.

Professor
Coach is unable to hike. After about 6 or 8 miles I could look up in the mountainside and see Coach trailing behind me. This is unusual. He is almost always a hundred yards in front. When I had to carry his pack I knew we were done and needed to get off the Trail. A state trooper wouldn't help us unless we paid him. The ladies at the Visitor's Center gift shop were helpful, able to get a hold of the Ranger, who took us into Ft. Montgomery, NY about 40 miles outside of NYC. Home of West Point Military Academy, where it was graduation weekend. No vacancies, overcharging, we had the BBQ "Pig Out" meal at a nearby restaurant to make us feel better. Finally found a cheap motel room, had a 12 pack of beer. Try not to think about how few rest days we have left.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

From the Journals: DAY 83, May 17

Coach
Wildcat Shelter - Fingerboard Shelter: 14.3mi
-I don't like New York
-More rain
-Resupply
-Postal worker said we looked out of it
-Trail magic back to the trail (ie, ride)
-Left ankle is now an issue

Professor
Finally found our bump box...Had to walk 2.1 miles to the post office on the side of a busy highway in the rain. Apparently, we looked how we felt; even the postal worker lady said something.

Up and down, up and down, that's New York. It's been raining for days. Big rain, slippery rocks.

At the gas station, a man started asking questions about our hike. I asked for a ride back to the Trailhead and we lucked out. He had a crazy Pit Bull in his van that he had to hold back with one hand while driving with the other, in the rain, and looking back at us talking while the Pit Bull was growling - I white knuckled the seat.

Coach's ankle is hurting him tonight.

From the Journals: DAY 82, May 16

Coach
NJ Route 94 - Wildcat Shelter: 17.0mi
-Enjoyed the motel room until the last minute 11am checkout
-RAIN ALL DAY
-Slippery rocks
-Left ankle might be developing into an issue
-Got to shelter after dark

Professor
Saw 2 big black bears today. They bluffed us. I yelled at them.
Tried to hitch a ride back to the Trailhead in the rain this morning- no luck.
It POURED on us!
Late start, didn't want to leave the comfort of the hotel room in the rain. Watched Rules of Engagement this morning waiting out the rain.
The Appalachian Motel is not very hiker friendly. Even though it was pouring, they wouldn't give us a ride the 1.8 miles back to the Trailhead. They were actually kind of jerks, and totally price gouged us to do laundry. Made us pay $11 for 1 load of laundry (They knew the alternative, hike 5 miles in the rain...).
Rocks were wicked slippery today. Got to the shelter really late (9pm), disturbed some older ladies, not anything we could do about it though.
Cooking dinner late, want to go to bed.
My feet hurt.

From the Journals: DAY 81, May 15

Coach
High Point Shelter - NJ Route 94 (Vernon, NJ): 18.9 mi
-Rain all day on and off
-Burger King visit, $10 spent on value menu
-Ordered a pizza for delivery to get a ride back to the motel
-NJ is one of those states that doesn't allow gas stations and groceries to sell beer
-Enjoyed the volume of my bed, much better than my sleeping bag
-Cupcakes and honey buns

Professor
Raining this morning off and on. Swamps and mud and boardwalks. The leaves are neon green, it's amazing how green it is sometimes. Almost unreal. Hitched a ride into Vernon from a hippie farmer. BK valumeal. Ordered a pizza to be delivered to our hotel and caught a ride with the delivery girl. Watched Man on Fire.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

From the Journals: DAY 80

Coach
Brink Road Shelter - High Point Shelter: 19.6 mi
Got a good start and then blew any time we gained by getting breakfast sandwiches and hanging out at a tavern for a few cold ones. Since we still hit our average, it was well worth the morale boosting it provided. I am very impressed with New Jersey. Yet again, when we got to the shelter people gave us food and we enjoyed 2 cold beers we packed in for dinner. I hope our town experience goes well tomorrow and we can get some much needed AMC time, which is lying in bed watching whatever is on AMC.

Professor
Believe it or not, there was a tavern right next to one of the Trail heads today. @ 10am we had finished 2 cups of coffee, 2 doughnuts (one jelly filled and one chocolate glazed with sprinkles), a giant sausage, egg and cheese breakfast sandwich with double the meat and cheese... and three beers. We also bought a six pack to go and hiked 20 miles. I LOVE NEW JERSEY!

Hit a huge boyscout troop tonight. They cleared the shelter for us and cooked us food! I LOVE NEW JERSEY!

From the Journals: DAY 79, May 13

Coach
Backpacker campsite - Brink Road Shelter: 20.0 mi
It was nice to be able to hit our average. Although it was still painful most of the day, when we arrived at the shelter a group of New Jersians gave us a whole bunch of Scotch packaged as individual serving sizes. It was great and we had one of our few pain free nights. Another group that we camped next to also gave us some food, so it was basically a great night. It appears people from New Jersey got a really bad rap because of Jersey Shores.

Professor


Single serving scotch + Wood + Fire = Cool NJ Trail Magic


Met some awesome New Jersey folks out for the weekend. One of the guys was developing an idea that had scotch or whiskey in single serving condiment style packages! It was great. He hooked us up with a bunch. I LOVE NEW JERSEY! (except the mosquitos hit)

From the Journals: DAY 78, May 12

Coach
Kirkridge Shelter - Backpacker Campsite: 11.2mi
Finally OUT of PA, the worst state.
Stone bruises - not fun.
I never thought I would be happy to enter the state of New Jersey.

Professor
7 or so miles into Delaware Water Gap. Coach seems to have some sort of deep stone bruise on his right heel, pretty painful. Showered up at the church hostel. Double order of garlic knots (deep fried garlic bread shaped into little balls with marinara sauce for dipping) and a large pizza with pepperoni and ham - some of the best pizza we've had on the Trail yet. I guess we are starting to get to that part of the country).

HELLO NJ! We are finally finished with Pennsylvania. PA kicked our butts, I hope my feet slowly start to heal a little with easier terrain. I don't care about ups and downs anymore. I just don't want the rocks. The godforsaken rocks.

We are at a good campsite tonight watching the sunset off the ridge, I can hear the Interstate far below..

From the Journals: DAY 77

Coach
Campsite - Kirkridge Shelter: 23.0 mi
After four straight days of draining our Zero Day Account, we finally banked some mileage. However, it came with a lot of pain. It was some tough terrain to make up miles on. I am looking forward to sleeping. Hopefully the pain in my heels won't be so intense in the morning. On another positive note, we will be leaving the rocks of Pennsylvania behind us. Today, I have come to the realization that pain will be my other companion for the rest of the Trail. Also, I really dislike snakes. Yet another reason PA stinks. It is snake country and we saw another one today. There is nothing more a snake loves than a hot rock that has been baking in the sun all day. Just more evidence that the sun is crafty and out to get me any way it can. Forgot to mention only one good water source all day.

Professor
I woke up at 2:30 or 3 in the morning with a giant centipede or millipede on my neck. Wide awake after that one...

Long day today, paying for it now, I wonder about my feet. I have a weird bump on the bottom of each one on the pad of my foot before my toes. It feels like a pebble permanently attached in the middle of my foot.

Staying with Fosters and Youngin tonight. Also, sipping on the bourbon Manager Mike left. It is definitely making the night easier. I forgot to mention that Manager Mike had hard boiled eggs waiting for us at the U-Haul before he left yesterday. I can't tell you how much I crave hard boiled eggs, or even better, deviled eggs. I could house like 30!

Slang terms:
Cameling up = drinking lots of water at springs
Letting your guard down = The realization that the day will end...things start to hurt
Hurty = pain
Poison = bugspray
House = eat

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

From the Journals: DAY 76, May 10

Coach



Bake Oven Knob Shelter - Campsite: 14.3mi


Today, we said goodbye to Manager Mike. After making a short 3mi hike from the worst shelter we have stayed in, we met Manager Mike for the final time and loaded up for Delaware Water Gap. The Professor's feet are still bothering him and I am sure this rough rocky terrain didn't help him at all. It was a tough day, physically and psychologically. First, we hit a 8 mi gap without water, which started the 2nd part of the day covering exposed rocky terrain that in some parts required us to climb and scramble. We also got to detour around a super fund site. This detour also led us through trek heaven.. a 3 mile stretch where between the Professor and I, we pulled off 32 ticks. Luckily, we cameled up at the last water source. Nothing like pounding a few liters of water back to back. At night we did have a fire, which is always awesome. I am also encouraged that the Professor was talking about hitting our average tomorrow. Just a friendly reminder that rationing water really sucks. We will both have about 1 liter to go 7.5 miles tomorrow morning.


Professor



Last day of slackpacking. Kind of makes me homesick. I miss seeing Hell Hound out front with his big orange doggy pack. It was sad to see Manager Mike off with his U-Haul trailer. Believe it or not, I felt a little nervous about going out unsupported with my feet the way they are right now. Saw a government superfund site: nothing grows and the trees are long dead. Reminds me of how I imagine the setting for Cormac McCarthy's "The Road." Between Coach and I we picked off a total of 32 ticks in a 3 mile stretch. Me: 11 ticks, Coach: 21 ticks.


Lots of crazy murder on your feet rocks today. I will officially say that with the exception of the first 75 miles or so, Pennsylvania has been a very difficult part of the Trail. Almost to NJ; thank goodness (never thought I'd say that).



Hell Hound in front with orange doggy pack:













Enjoying one last treat from Manager Mike:



Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Update: Coach is back in the game

Coach returns to the Trail today and plans to catch up with the Professor by Sunday, May 29. Stay tuned.

Monday, May 23, 2011

Update: Coach sidelined

On May 22nd, Coach and the Professor arrived in Kent, CT. Unfortunately, today, May 23, the Professor is walking alone. Coach has twisted his ankle and needs to spend a day or two recuperating. He plans to catch up with the Professor, and nobody that knows Coach doubts that this will happen.

From the Journals: DAY 75, May 9

Coach

Hawk Mountain Rd - Bake Oven Knob Shelter: 17.4mi


ROCKS !!!

Last day of slack packing. All I know is we wouldn't be where we are without Manager Mike and Hell Hound. Thank you.


Professor

Last day/night of slack packing. It has been very interesting since Duncannon... In no particular order, my summary:

-We hit the rocks finally

-Shoes totally broke down

-Feet ruined. Knocked me off the trail a day and a half.

-New shoes, very stiff, trying to break them in over rocks with ruined feet.

This would not be possible without Manager Mike, slack packing, and Hell Hound.

-I lost my trekking poles.

-Ate at Cracker Barrel 3 times in about 24 hours

-Drank scotch

-Drank bourbon

-Drank beer

Yum.

-Doyle Hotel was fun; delicious cheesesteaks; ate a deep fried cheeseburger

-Space Cowboy, Youngin, Fosters, and Victus caught up to us on our Zero Day

-Forced to take a Zero at Port Clinton

Thank god our logistics Manager was here to help us through the "ruined feet" time.



Saying goodbye to Manager Mike and Hell Hound at mile 1,245. Only 936 miles left.

From the Journals: DAY 74, May 8

Coach
Port Clinton, PA - Hawk Mountain Rd: 14.9 mi
-More rocks
-Professor likes his new armor, but feet are really sore
-PA is not my favorite state on the Trail

From the Journals: DAY 73

Coach

Port Clinton, PA: 0mi

The Professor's feet are like they were coming into Damascus, VA. With shoes completely broken down and the upcoming terrain, we wisely decided we needed to take a Zero Day to fix this problem. Thankfully, Manager Mike is supporting us on this slack packing. If he wasn't here, we would have been in a big pinch and would have lost much more than a Zero Day. With some assistance from Lindsay, we were able to track down a store to get him some replacements. The closest retailer for the Professor's shoes was REI, 35 miles away. After 1200 miles and 3 different pairs of shoes and two brands later, I finally convinced the Professor to try on some MERRELLs. I am very interested to see if this is the solution to his feet issues. It also really helps to pull our uniforms together, since now we even have these same shoes.

From the Journals: DAY 72, May 6

Coach
Round Head Campsite - Port Clinton, PA: 21.0mi
- The Professor's shoes breakdown (he's walking on paper)
- Rocks becoming an issue
- The Professor needs to get MERRELL's

Professor
Shoes broken, feet broken.

From the Journals: DAY 71

Coach
Yellow Springs Campsite - Round Head Campsite: 25.0 mi
The terrain has become a little more rocky, but still not as bad as we feared. So far so good, but I keep thinking we will eventually run into nothing but rocks. We had initially planned on getting in a couple more miles to the next campsite, but it was hard to pass one up at the end of the day when someone already collected firewood for you next to the fire circle. Yet again, we were able to bank some Zero miles.

From the Journals: DAY 70, May 4

Coach

Duncannon, PA -Yellow Springs Campsite: 24.8mi


Today, we started our 2nd round of slack packing with Manager Mike. Although it was raining when we started, it cleared up and we made good time. There were some rocks, but not what we have been fearing. We had a strong day and were able to bank some Zero Day miles. I am really not looking forward to these Pennsylvania rocks we have been hearing about. Hopefully, we can build on this momentum during the rest of the slack packing.


Professor


Used by tent today at the end of the slack packing. It was really nice.


















From the Journals: DAY 69

Coach
Duncannon, PA: 0mi

-Logistics for Manager Mike slack packing us

-Food

-More food

-Pancakes (blueberry)


Professor

Thank you Manager Mike (Dad) for making this possible. And thanks Hell Hound, for your support!




From the Journals: DAY 68, May 2

Coach
Darlington Shelter - Duncannon, PA: 11.3mi
Woke up extremely hungry. Breakfast didn't really help and we were slow to get up and start moving. The only thing motivating us today was the thought of town food and a Zero Day with Manager Mike. Manager Mike met us about a mile out of town with Hell Hound. It was great to see him and lucky for us he had a PAYDAY candy bar that he gave us. We then hiked to the infamous Doyle Hotel for food and rest. It was a great town day where Mike treated us to food, beer and a double feature at the movies.

Professor
We rationed food, that sucked, we were hungry. We hiked. It was great to get to Duncannon.


Hell Hound waiting for the hikers



Drinks at the Doyle Hotel Bar- the AT is just outside the door at Mile 1,138.5.


From the Journals: DAY 67

Coach

Alec Kennedy Shelter - Darlington Shelter: 18.2mi


Got a really slow start; we are really feeling fatigued. The push to Duncannon was quickly thrown out the window. It rained all day and even though we hiked through a lot of farmland the rain/muddy conditions combined with our fatigue made slow going. Since we didn't get to Duncannon, our food supply is really low. If I didn't do the 1/2 gallon challenge, I wouldn't have had any thing to eat for dinner. Basically, my dinner consisted of a packet of chicken with all the rest of my condiments combined with a packet of oatmeal. The Professor also gave me a spoonful of peanut butter. Breakfast will not be much more. Thanks to the Professor I will get to eat a packet of poptarts. I have also come to the conclusion that I don't want to ration food ever again.


Professor

Cumberland Valley, PA. 18.2 miles of farms, towns and small homesteads. It was saturated! Mud, mud, mud. Passed by the ATC Mid-Atlantic Regional Office. They were closed so we just sat on the front porch and watched people fish. Two black labs eagerly wait by their master's side while she casts a line into the trout pond. We weighed our packs on an old scale and after much deliberation over how off it was, we decided the base weight of our packs are almost right @ 15 lbs. Started raining; feeling the results of the Maryland Challenge. We were going to do 25 miles but pulled up short because of fatigue.

From the Journals: DAY 66, April 30

Coach
Birch Run Shelter - Alec Kennedy Shelter: 25.2 mi
Got a good start on the day, which made it possible to try the 1/2 gallon ice cream challenge. The word challenge was attached, so of course I had to try it. Eating the ice cream was relatively easy. The real challenge is for your digestive system a little later down the Trail. Basically, after two months of not eating a lot of dairy, you all of a sudden shock your system with it. Either way we still got 15 miles out after the Challenge, but we can tell we haven't recovered from the Maryland Challenge. We stayed at the shelter with a nice group, who made room for us and gave us food. These type of people are my favorite. Thinking about making the big push into Duncannon, PA tomorrow.

Professor
After dark a group of 11 showed up at the shelter... fun...
Officially now we are over halfway finished. It feels good to have the majority behind you instead of in front from now on. Today turned epic, we felt fatigued later this afternoon. 25+ miles. Coach did a practice run of the half gallon challenge, I think it screwed up his digestive tract, he hasn't ben the same since. (Editor's Note: This turned out to be the real half gallon challenge; Professor did not participate thinking it only a practice run, but based on Coach's digestive problems througout the rest of the day, he is glad of the mistake).

PATC trail section over. Got temporarily lost... twice... Shelter full, cool people though, very interested in our trip. Gave us food.





















From the Journals: DAY 65

Coach
Tumbling Rock Shelter - Birch Run Shelter: 19.6 mi
Took an easier day; it was much needed. We saw the nicest shelter on the Trail at Quarry Gap Shelter. It looked like an old cottage in the woods. A guy called the Innkeeper maintained it very well. Apparently, there is a friendly competition among PATC shelter maintainers for the nicest shelter. The Innkeeper is hands down the winner. We, of course, took no pictures.

Professor
Easy feeling day today. Easy terrain, easy mileage, 19.6 miles. Met the "Innkeeper" planting flowers in flower pots around his shelter (trail maintenance volunteer). The shelter was beautiful, like a quaint open aired English Inn with a garden. It even had chess. Coach and I sopped for lunch and had a nice conversation with the Innkeeper.

Caught up with a couple of thru-hikers. I feel like today was another good recovery day from the 41.3 miler. Figured out that if we have 7 Zero Days we only have to maintain a 19.6 daily average. Good news!

Staying with "Chainsaw" tonight; he got his name from his heavy, heavy snoring.

From the Journals: DAY 64, April 28

Coach
Campsite in PA - Tumbling Rock Shelter: 7.7 mi
As we very slowly started moving this morning, two older gentlemen came down the trail to do some maintenance. They had just put in the Mason/Dixon line sign. Apparently, they held leadership positions with the Potomic Applachian Trail Club (PATC). These guys do great work. They started asking about our thru-hike and when they found out we were resupplying today, they offered to meet us at the road and gave us a ride into town. Then, they bought us lunch and dropped us back off. After the craziness of the past 30 hours, I can't begin to describe what a difference these guys made in our day. After our resupply, we only hiked 6 miles and decided to rest, since we didn't get much sleep.

Professor
I opened my eyes. Tarp in place, sleeping bag... not too wet, mostly just damp, ants don't seem too interested in me right now... maybe because of the ant graveyard /battlefield above my head. I shut my eyes tightly. Rain patters overhead. I can feel a mist when it gets heavier. Things seem to be not quite so intense at the moment, early gray dawn. Eyes open again. Sun, it's now 10am.

I have dry mouth from dehydration and and from the two airplane bottle size Jack Daniels that Coach had stowed away for us in celebration and for medical reasons after completion of the Maryland Challenge.

Only walked 8 miles today. One of the shortest days of the whole Trail. It feels great to sit and enjoy what a nice shelter has to offer! Tumbling Run Shelter - lacquered wood, clothes line, pavilion, picnic tables.


From the Journals: DAY 63

Coach

Harpers Ferry, WV - Campsite 1/2 mile inside PA: 41.3mi


Start time: 0515 (4/27)

Stop time: 0134 (4/28)

Miles hiked: 41.3

Liters of H2O: 17

Jack Daniels: 2oz

Calories consumed: Over 7,000

People who thought we were insane: 6

# of perfect shelters we left to camp in a thunderstorm with our ultralight 6x10 tarp: 1


We started the challenge by waking up at 4am. I was already concerned since we slept very poorly thanks to two equally sleep disturbing facts. First, the room in the Inn was so hot it felt like a South American sweatbox. We had the window open and cranking the A/C with little effect. Second, we found out that Harpers Ferry is still a rail hub for the area. We hit the bridge crossing the Potomac River into Maryland at 5:15am. It was dark and we began what turned into one heck of an experience. Per are strategy session, we made sure to eat something every 1.5 to 2 hours and made sure we were constantly drinking water to stay hydrated. The morning went well and we even got to spend a little time at the War Correspondents Memorial. There was a slightly awkward moment at lunch, which the Professor will no doubt describe. Like normal, we made sure to hike half the day before eating. It was a weird feeling knowing that after lunch we still had 20 miles to hike. Our next major stop came 10 miles later at a shelter, where we met one of the people who thought we were insane. He basically told us we were insane after we told him he didn't need to move any of his stuff because we were moving on. It was at this point that we switched over to our soft insoles. As we neared the next shelter, we felt rain and we thought that the thunderstorm that was threatening all day was going to unleash on us. So at mile 36 for the day we had to hike uphill for a mile to get to the shelter before the rain. This time Mother Nature blessed us and held out for the 22 minutes it took for us to pound out the mile at a 2.9 mph after a long day. At the shelter, we ate dinner, rubbed our feet, and said goodbye to people #4, #5 and #6 who thought we were insane. The rain still hadn't let loose as we left what at that point was the nearest shelter we had seen to complete the 5.6 miles left in the Maryland Challenge. The time was 10:40pm. I forgot to mention that before we left the shelter the people told us how difficult the terrain ahead of us was. Of course, it didn't matter and we pushed on to the border, the mason/dixon line. About a mile from the shelter, we hit that rough terrain, but after a mile of rocks and boulders it flattened out. When we finally reached our campsite, we were surprised to find a sign at the creek, where we planned to refill water. Apparently, the local water treatment plant decided that last week would be a good time to spill 500,000 gallons of half treated waste water into the creek. The sign said to avoid exposure so we wisely decided to skip drinking it. Unfortunately, this turn of events meant we had a liter of water each to last until we got into town tomorrow. The good news is that in our fatigue induced delirium we did manage to set up our best tarp shelter of the hike. Of course, this was fortunate, since the thunderstorm that had been threatening all day and night finally made good Thanks to the wind and the fact that we need a 8x10 tarp instead of the 6x10 that we have, we had to put on our rain gear and wait out the storm. It started about 3am and let up enough around 6am that we could put up our rain gear and pull out our sleeping bags. We finally got up around 10am. We didn't sleep very well since we were both curled up in the fetal position. However, with Jack Daniels' help we rode out the thunderstorm in the tarp.


Professor

MARYLAND CHALLENGE. Refer to Coach's journal. We are hiking through the suburbs. We are hiking through people's backyards now.